Serengeti National Park, Tanzania: Hyena, Vulture, Ostrich

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Serengeti National Park is considered the most important wildlife sanctuary remaining on earth. Over 3 million large animals, some of which are found nowhere else, coexist in the Serengeti, making it peerless in quantity and variety of life. As its woodlands harboured tsetse flies which bring disease to livestock (wild animals are naturally immune), the Serengeti was spared encroachment by Europeans and the attendant wildlife decimation. The Serengeti National Park is now surrounded by buffer zones where human activity is phased down to blend with conservation objectives. Conflicts continue with the impoverished villages around the Serengeti as the villagers perceive that the needs of animals and tourists are given priority over their own needs. About 40,000 animals a year are killed illegally by locals. The Serengeti authorities realize that successful conservation efforts ultimately require the long-term support of the locals.

It's forbidden to drive in the Serengeti Park after sunset. But if you fall ill in the middle of the park, you can get permission to delay your return and wind up driving back at night. That's how we were able to experience a rare night safari and take these pictures of a spotted hyena and cub. I must admit that I used to have no respect for hyenas until I read that, despite their canine appearance, they are more closely related to cats than dogs.

Hyena hyeding

Hyenas are the most common large carnivores in the Serengeti and the only ones that challenge lions. Efficient and cooperative hunters, hyena prey mainly on hoofed mammals. They also steal kills from other predators and eat carrion, bones and trash, all of which contributes to their bad public image. Hyena clans are centered around females, which are dominant to and larger than the males. Serengeti hyenas combine a residential life in a defended clan territory with long trips to forage on migratory herds. This commuting lifestyle allows them to prosper in large, stable clans in areas where game is not abundant year-round.

Nevertheless, hyenas do look silly sitting with their rears in the mud. This muddy-bummed individual was watching the most disturbing thing we saw on safari...

This hapless zebra
is half a zebra
If hyenas don't deserve their reputation as loathsome scavengers, vultures certainly seem to. When we arrived this hapless zebra was half a zebra. Athumani said it probably died from natural causes earlier in the day. The squawking, squabbling, grunting vultures started at the anus and worked forward from the inside - vulture beaks cannot penetrate the thick zebra hide. There was constant turn-over as new vultures swooped in and the group fought amongst themselves for good spots.

We were left with a vivid image of what it means to call someone, say a lawyer, a "vulture". But, in fairness to the vultures, they are an essential part of the ecosystem, efficiently consuming the remains of dead animals. The fact that they're often seen covered in blood and gore while feeding doesn't help their image. But they don't stay dirty for long: they bathe every day.

Ostrich, now there's a big bird (the world's largest) that everyone can appreciate. Ostriches have been hunted to extinction in Asia and now are only found in central Africa. The conspicuous black and white plumage indicates this is a male. Ostriches can run very quickly for a considerable time and swerve sharply to avoid predators. They have the largest eyes of any land animal. In order to escape detection, they sometimes lie on the ground with their necks outstretched which surely gave rise to the myth that ostriches bury their heads.

Imagine a million animals on the move...